While in North Africa last week, I had the opportunity to observe and examine the security forces of Tunisia. For those who don’t know, the Tunisian revolution – largely organized on Facebook – was the spark that set off half a dozen or so other major revolutions or revolts, including Egypt, Libya, Yemen, Syria, etc.
The military and police presence in the city was very heavy. This was apparent to me even when arriving at the airport, where Steyr AUG A1s were fairly common. It was also apparent that firearms safety was not high on the list of their priorities when a customs official walked through the airport with his loaded AUG held parallel to the deck, finger on the trigger. During my week in Tunisia, I had approximately half a dozen weapons pointed at me, all by military or police, and only one deliberately.
Everyone arriving at Carthage International Airport in Tunis goes through a metal detector and all bags are searched, sometimes in the presence of their owners, sometimes not. After a friendly chat with Tunisian customs officials regarding some of the items I had brought with me into the country, I walked into the city of Tunis. I was followed for a short time by plainclothes police, but they made no attempt to hide their presence, and they either dropped back or gave up after I stopped and looked at them for a while (I later saw that the State Department notice about Tunisia describes being followed as a possibility).
It was late at night, and I had a 7-8km walk ahead of me, so I didn’t stop to take many pictures, though I did notice a lot of Fiat armored vehicles and Humvees outside various buildings and at major intersections. The main thoroughfare through town had several massive water cannon trucks parked on the median, as well. Public buses had been used by police to transport dozens of riot control officers to major gatherings, and concertina wire lined many streets and blocked a lot of alleys. I only took pictures when I knew I wouldn’t be spotted, because taking such photos is a crime punishable by prison time in Tunisia.
The next day, as I walked the city, I noted that the AUG was used by military, police, and national guard forces. Handguns were very rare except outside certain major government buildings. Even traffic cops, who had large white leather holsters, did not carry handguns – their holsters were empty. The majority of the AUGs I saw were unloaded as well, except outside foreign embassies and the like. Almost all of the armored vehicles had M2 .50 caliber machine guns mounted, but only one had an ammo can nearby.
After returning from the border with Libya, I spent several hours talking with some Tunisian police officers who were waiting for a riot that didn’t seem to be materializing. They were very nice to me and interested in speaking with an American. Only a few spoke English, but they translated for those who didn’t. I found that most officers carried Browning Hi Powers or Smith & Wesson revolvers – I was handed examples of both, a MkIII BHP and a S&W Model 10-9. Both seemed to be in very good condition, and were carried unloaded.
The officers told me that they practiced twice a week, firing 10 rounds each time. They are not allowed to choose whether they get a revolver or semi auto, but they do carry the same type every day (none were allowed to take them home). All had fired the AUG, but I was interested to learn that Tunisian special forces use Colt M4s and M16s. One soldier I spoke with carried a Glock 19 on a chest rig. The AUGs all appeared to be very worn and in some cases rusty, but none of the police or soldiers I spoke to said they had reliability problems – the same goes for their other weapons.
I was reminded that I was in a Muslim country when I witnessed two police officers I had not spoken with before beating a man. I asked the officers I was with what was happening, and they told me that the man had kissed a woman in public, and because there was a mosque nearby, this was a serious offense. I was a little surprised that the response was so forceful, because I was aware from my time in the country that it is a pretty forward-thinking Muslim nation. Still, there are apparently lines that should not be crossed. I promised the officers that I would not kiss any women in the area. Before anyone asks, no, I didn’t take any pictures, and I didn’t attempt to stop the beating (other officers did move to stop the more energetic of the two).
I do not believe that I spoke to anyone in the country for more than one minute who did not ask me if I felt safe and if I would like to return. The entire nation seemed to be very pleased that Ben Ali, their former leader, was gone, but especially his wife, Leila Trabelsi – there was universal hatred for her. In addition, everyone seemed concerned that tourists would stay away due to the revolution.
I did feel safe, but I think that security was still lax in spite of – or perhaps because of – the massive police presence. Many guards at entry control points seemed to be complacent, and soldiers seemed more interested in talking with one another than keeping an eye out for danger. An angry crowd would be hard to miss, but one person could have easily caused a lot of havoc if they wanted to.
Great report, and very interesting to see that they have pretty normal concerns (business) and were happy to see an American. Beautiful pictures of what looks like a beautiful country (APCs aside)!
It was definitely beautiful. I took plenty of scenic shots, but didn’t think they were relevant to the article. I’ll probably post them elsewhere.
you have big balls, i will not be going there. ever.
Can I ask why would you go to such a place?
It was the gateway to Libya, and as a fake journalist/blogger, it seemed like the place to be.
Which camera were you using?
Canon S95, shooting in manual.
Tell us about the one deliberate muzzle encounter……
And an excellent report as always.
Years ago I spent a week in Tunis, and there was no doubt in my mind that it was a police state. Still, like any good police state, the signs are not immediately obvious.
I befriended a police officer while I was there, by the name of Hareem (it means respectable–good cop name). He invited me to stay at his home for enough time to really get to know Tunisia, “Six or eight weeks,” and he confirmed my observations about who were the actors. Regular police wear uniforms unless they’re under cover. (This part he didn’t point out explicitly but it wasn’t exactly hard to figure out) the undercover police are the guys wearing flannel plaid shirts and cargo pants, often holding radios. Might as well be a uniform.
Then there’s the military, fairly ubiquitous wherever there are groups of people, wealthy or otherwise. Every one I saw was patrolling with an AUG in-hand. Yes, they’re there to protect people but in a static way.
Finally, there’s the military intelligence. They wear brown suits and blend in with the crowd fairly well. They are there to perform surveillance and move the military and police around the city as necessary, and are on the shortest list of not-to-fuck-withs.
Even then, taking photos of government agents was forbidden. Asking why, it is because if their identities are exposed, they may be compromised through their civilian lives.
I was on a tour of the Tunis Medina and deliberately got lost from the group to take photos by myself. On one stretch of alley I thought I’d snap a picture of a soldier in the setting sunlight under an archway about half a block away. There were no other entrances to the alley except the way I came and the way I could see, but as soon as I put the camera to my face, a man in a brown suit pushed my arm away and in perfect English said, “No photos of soldiers, please.” He may as well have dropped down from the sky.
That night I asked Hareem what the deal was and he told me that our tour was a big deal for the Tunisian government, (I was part of a press docket) and that they had a decided interest in making sure we stayed safe and didn’t get lost or mugged. They had gone so far as to preemptively arrest all of the usual suspects, muggers, pickpockets, unscrupulous vendors three days prior–about a thousand people. I asked him how many of guys in brown suits were there, and he just asked me, “How many journalists are you?”
Very interesting. Thanks.